Removing the shields was easy, they were simply sandwiched between the wheel and the rotor.  I was shocked by how much dust, dirt and grime had accumulated inside the shields. After removing the shields I flushed all the brake fluid out of the car and replaced it with ATE Super Blue fluid.

Oh, and I've heard a lot of people debate the best way to flush the brake fluid in this car.  I have found that the best results are always using two people - have one person pump the brake pedal smoothly while another catches the fluid at each wheel. Pressure bleeders do not properly cycle the ABS valves so you don't get all the air and fluid out of the system.  Save your money and don't both with the pressure bleeder - instead buy some beer and pizza for a friend of yours and get them to help.

Hardwiring the unit is very easy using the adapter that comes with the V1. Using the moon roof switch as a power source, I simply attached the red wire from the V1 adapter to the brown wire and the black wire from the V1 adapter to the red wire.  (Yes, this sounds opposite of what you'd expect - see my entry about the moon roof switch above.)  Next I cut a custom length telephone cord, crimped on some RJ11 connectors, and now have my V1 set to automatically turn on and off with the car.

I placed the V1 over the rear view mirror closer to the driver's seat.  Here the sun visors do not obscure it while they are flipped down, and it can be seen without taking your eyes off the road.  I considered using the concealed display kit, but there wasn't any elegant place to install it.  In the event I am ever pulled over for speeding, I doubt a cop would see the V1 in its current position, but I'll still try to take it down before he gets to the vehicle.

Luckily Ron Stygar sells a new clutch pedal that is machined to be perfectly round and comes with high quality delrin bushings.  Installing the pedal is a pain if you've never done it before because of the limited about of space to work in, but it solves the squeak.  Here is a useful page describing the installation routine and to order one you should e-mail Ron Stygar.

Note:  the page I link to above describes the procedure on an E36.  On the M Coupe it is slightly different - disassembly of the knee area requires removing a number of screws and bolts and then a bit of a geometric puzzle to actually remove some of the pieces. Once you start taking apart the pedal the instructions are accurate.

Most people I know suggest using lacquer thinner or "Goof Off" or "Oops" (all available from your hardware store) to remove the stickers.  I've personally found that this still leaves a residue that is even worse than the original sticker.  You can replace the visors with their European counter parts that do not have the warnings by ordering part numbers: 51 16 8 407 077  and 51 16 8 407 078.
 

Note:  these bulbs come in different socket styles depending on the car.  The 1999 M Coupe (and possible all M Coupe models) that I have requires Opposite Pin bulbs for the rear.  I have not been able to find bulbs that fit the front turn signals.

Also note that the 2001 BMW M3 uses offset bulbs which do not fit on the 1999 M Coupe.

Alcantara is basically a synthetic suede fabric.  Installation of the shift boot is straight forward: pull the shift knob off, pull the boot off, put the new boot on inside-out so you can zip tie the top on.  The parking brake handle should not be removed to install the new boot.  Instead, pull the boot off and turn it inside out as you slide it off.  Cut the zip tie holding it under the parking brake handle and it will come right off.  Installation of the new boot is the exact opposite. 

While I was at it, I replaced my grungy shift knob with a great red and black leather two knob from LeatherZ.  I am amazed at how much nicer a new shift knob makes the car feel.

On every M Coupe that I've ever driven there has always been some play in the seats during high acceleration and deceleration.  During competitive driving I want to feel like I'm a piece of the car so that I can feel every force acting on the vehicle and the rocking chair effect drives me crazy. 

It turns out that the problem is with the rubber bushings inside the seat rails.  Over time they crack and start to flex which causes the rocking.  Luckily Doug Whalen has produced some Delrin bushings to replace the soft rubber ones.  These bushings aren't advertised, but you can e-mail Doug to buy a set for $10 or two sets (for both seats) for $17.  Installation is a pain in the neck as it requires removal and disassembly of the seats but well worth it.  While you have the driver seat out you may want to consider removing the padding behind the carpet for a little more leg room.  See this webpage for detailed installation instructions.

The Interstate MTP-91 battery is the exact same size as the M Coupe battery and is a few pounds lighter and outputs more power. It is a direct swap.  The only downside is that the battery vent hole is not in the same location as BMW's, so if you want to hook up the vent you'll need a longer hose.  The new battery should come with a hose kit, but mine didn't and the dealer knew nothing about it.  I ended up using some fuel hosing that I had lying around.

See Ron Stygar's posting on Bimmerfest for details.  I'm borrowing his photos to demonstrate at the right.

(Images borrowed from Ron Stygar)